John Galliano’s re-imagining of the New Look

Having just read Linda Grant’s “The Thoughtful Dresser” and her remembrances of her mother’s clothes, John Galliano’s Fall 2009 collection for Christian Dior is quite perfectly timed.

It is a re-imagining of Dior’s original New Look and some of the deconstructed elements are quite beautiful. He emphasises the shapely waists and full skirts, as well as making a feature of the foundation undergarments of the look; the underwire bustier, the suspenders, the tulle petticoats, and the peplum (a device to pad the hips to emphasise the waist).



In translation to the everyday look, expect to see more of the old fashioned slip with lace edge to re-appear beneath skirts, and very feminine, tailored jackets. Elegant details will also re-appear, the gloves, the frame handbags, and possibly even the hat (though people seem to refuse to stand out quite that much in everyday dressing).

Some of the young models (as young as sixteen) really did look as if they had raided their mother’s closet for her finery and were parading in front of her bedroom mirror. Some of the girls simply didn’t have the maturity (or the bust) to pull off what is essentially a womanly look.

On an amusing note, many of the models are shown with a jacket and their elasticised “role-ups”, or as I call ‘em “suck-it-in pants”. You might call them shapewear. I can’t think of a group of people who require such artifice less.



Also, watching them mince carefully down the massive staircase in their massive platform shoes is quite amusing. Only the good ones make it look as it they aren’t concentrating fiercely on not falling down.

Photos and full video of the Dior Fall 2009 parade care of Women’s Wear Daily.

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